Jirocho

At this izakaya, the large platters lined up in front of the counter make it tempting to choose a drink and a few small plates before anything else. At 次郎長 in Minami-Senju, a good place to start is the sashimi platter, generously piled with seasonal seafood. The selection varies with the day's supply and may include tuna, white fish and shellfish. The platter takes a little time to prepare, leaving room to take your time over a drink while you wait.

Beyond the fresh fish, there are homestyle dishes with a warm, familiar feel. House-made choices include beef offal simmered until tender, a softly cooked dashimaki tamago (rolled omelette with dashi), and aji nanban, with its pleasing acidity. Add a drink such as draft beer or Hoppy, and graze on the side dishes and simmered fare displayed along the counter.

For a more filling finish, there is the Jirocho-don seafood bowl, topped generously with seafood, as well as fragrant grilled rice balls, ochazuke and salt-flavoured yakisoba. It suits a spontaneous stop for a drink on your own, as well as a more relaxed evening with a seat booked in advance. Payment is cash only, so it is worth bringing cash with you.